A day at Tao Dan Park

No 3, Vol.10 , September  -  October 2015

I went to Tao Dan Park at 7 a.m. People of all types were jogging, walking, doing exercise, dancing, practicing martial arts and playing badminton. 
At the parking lot, I thought I had stepped into a forest with the noise of hundreds of birds. Many people were sitting in the café listening attentively to songs performed by the bird orchestra. This was a bird club established in the park long ago. Mr Dung, a bird-lover, said that most of people here knew each other well. Many come every morning for an exchange of ideas. Mr Dung has come here every weekend for over 10 years. He said it was not difficult to raise birds, but you must have a passion for them. At first, there was a conflict between him and his wife; she was jealous because he spent so much time feeding and bathing them. 

Particularly, to own a bird with a good voice, you have to usually bring it to the bird clubs to learn new songs or voices from other birds. A bird or a bird cage ranges from a few hundred thousand dongs to a few hundred millions. Then he pointed to a small wooden cage cost VND30 millions and was imported from China. He introduced me to an old man who released a bird costing $2,500 to the sky because the bird had a wound on its eyes. I thought that the bird would to survive in the outside world after being in the cage for long time. Mr Dung told me that the club organized bird contests in public holidays and attracted a lot of audiences to the events.

I met Frank, aged 54, from Holland, while he was visiting outdoor museum of daily life. He and his wife have been on a trip visiting Hanoi, Hue, Hoi An, Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta and Cambodia. Frank said he had an interesting morning in Tao Dan Park while the others in his group were sleeping. He also admired a Vietnamese tradition when I told him my husband, I, my brother and my parents lived in the same roof. My parents would help me take care of my babies and we also would do this when my parents get old. 

Then I met the Kung Fu master Ly Hong Hon, 85, who was teaching Thieu Lam Con Luan to his grandson, aged 8, and a few students. His voice was so clear although he had recent heart surgery. He showed me a picture with the caption, ‘Mr Ly Hong Hon teaches martial art in Tao Dan Park in 1976’. He said: ‘Going to school helps you can earn a lot of money. Studying martial arts brings you nothing except for health, which is an essential condition to get everything you want.’ Later, I searched online and knew that his family emigrated from China to Vietnam in 1932. He was one of the descendants of the inventors of Thieu Lam Con Luan in 1954. This martial art originated in China. 

I had a discussion with Mr Nguyen Thanh Cong, a scout of the Thang Long League. He said that all children could join the scout teams free of charge every Sunday morning. It was established with the aim of teaching the children necessary skills in life.
The best activity in Tao Dan Park is sitting on the bench inhaling the oxygen from a lot of lush trees, observing everyone and watching the fearless birds walking on the grass. Every time I come here, it always reminds me about good memories with my friends when we were high school girls. Everything in the park is still the same except us and trees getting old. 
Tao Dan Park completely does its job well providing a beautiful garden for citizens and tourists.n

The park located in District 1 between four roads of Cach Mang Thang Tam, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Du and Huyen Tran Cong Chua. After 1812, General Le Van Duyet, who helped Gia Long King open up, control and develop the land in the South, used the area as a bonsai garden to enjoy the flowers, cock fighting and performance of hát bội. So the garden was called ‘Vườn Ông Thượng’.  In the French reign, the garden joined to the land of Dinh Toàn Quyền (Reunification Palace now). In 1869, the French built Miss Clavel Street (Huyen Tran Cong Chua St) to separate the garden from the palace. The garden officially named Jardin de la Ville. The garden was also called ‘Vườn Bờ Rô’. When the French withdrew in 1954, it was changed the name to Vườn Tao Đàn (Tao Dan Garden).
Now, it is called Tao Dan Park. Several years ago, Truong Dinh Street divided the park into two parts. It is the place to organize festivals and fairs in public holidays. Moreover the park has a collection of sculpture stone statues, a Cham Tower and a Hung Kings Temple.
References:
The website of Culture Information Department of District 1
‘Sai Gon Nam Xua’ by Vuong Hong Sen and ‘Sai Gon Trong Mat Toi’ by Phung Nghi

Earthen wall houses

No 3, Vol.10 , September  -  October 2015 A Ha Nhi rammed earthern wall house in snow at Y Ty, Bat Xat Dist., Lao Cai Province. Photo: Pham Bang Legends have it that a long, long time ago, the Hmong, Yao and Ha Nhi peoples on the Y Ty highlands, in Bat Xat District, Lao Cai Province farmed their terrace fields and lived peacefully. But one winter, the weather was so cold that water froze. Bamboo houses could not withstand the severe cold and collapsed. The old ones couldn’t bear the cold and died. People cried day and night, and their grief penetrated to heaven. Bulding a rammed earthern wall house at Nam Dam Town, Quan Ba Dist., Ha Giang Province. Photos: Nguyen Bach Chien During that time, brigands from all around came to loot the villages. They used catapults to destroy dwellings, thus making the cold even colder. Giang (Heaven) heard the laments of the local people, and sent Hong Ngai Mountain God down to teach the Hmong, Yao and Ha Nhi peoples the way to build rammed earthen wall houses to protect themselves from the cold and the bandits. Since then, the Hmong of Hong Ngai Village knew how to make rammed walls. This is also the village with the best rammed wall houses of Y Ty highland commune in Bat Xat Dist. Bulding a rammed earthern wall house at Nam Dam Town, Quan Ba Dist., Ha Giang Province. Photos: Nguyen Bach Chien The Hmong people of Hong Ngai Village have a special procedure of house building. According to Mr Vang A Su, 56, an ex-chairman of Y Ty Commune, before making a house, a Hmong family has to choose a good day and time and a flat area of 40 - 50 m² of land. They have to cook a chicken and some sticky rice to make a sacrifice and pray their house would be strong and endure the centuries. To have four walls as strong as steel that even bullets can’t penetrate, they have to find an adhesive kind of mountain soil. First, Hong Ngai villagers use stones to make the house foundation. The foundation is built on the ground, without digging in to it as people in the low lands. Then, they reinforce strong boards to make formwork, much like those for making concrete slabs. The walls of a 40 m² house must be 40 cm thick. They fill the form with the selected soil and beat and bray it hard with pestles until blows leave no mark. The boards removed, the wall looks smooth, as if filed. Building a rammed earthern wall house at Nam Dam Town, Quan Ba Dist., Ha Giang Province. Photo: Nguyen Bach Chien Then they make the next level on top of the built wall. Each such level is about 40 cm high. They fill it with soil and bray it again exactly the same way. The upper layer would bond with the lower as one. Layer upon layer, it takes months to finish the walls. Mr Vang A Su told us that five-six form layers would be enough, but some families make seven-eight layers. Some in Pha Long of Muong Khuong District even make nine layer-tall walls. Building a rammed earthern wall house at Nam Dam Town, Quan Ba Dist., Ha Giang Province. Photo: Nguyen Bach Chien The walls finished, they use oak, Fujian cypress or menghundor wood to make the house frame. None of the walls have piers. Wooden pillars inside do the reinforcement. After the frame come the roofs. The Hmong of Hong Ngai used to thatch their roofs. Since the Government introduced the 135 Program, they modernized their houses with cement sheets. In Bac Ha District, Mr Vang A Tuong built a two-storey house in 1921, roofed with peeled layers of cypress wood, still a wonder of Lao Cai architecture for visitors to contemplate. A Ha Nhi Village at Y Ty Commune, Bat Xat Dist, Lao Cai Province Photo: Nguyen Tuan Anh Hmong rammed wall houses at Y Ty have a front door in the middle and a back door connected with a buffalo or horse stable at the back. They also have one or two hive-like windows for ventilation near the front door. A rammed earthern wall house at Y Ty Commune. Photo: Nguyen Binh Ha Nhi rammed houses at Y Ty are somewhat different from the Hmong ones. They are square instead of rectangular. The wall faces, both inside and outside, are buffed smooth. In the house they build another wall, also earthen, about 1.5m from the door. Behind this wall is the kitchen and bedroom of the house owner. A Ha Nhi rammed earthern wall house in snow at Y Ty Commune. Photo: Nguyen Cong Binh Seen from above, the ethnic rammed wall houses of Y Ty look like giant mushrooms on a mountain slope, very nice, cosy and cute. Major Ha Duc Hon of Y Ty border patrol outpost, who spent long years living on this land and studying rammed wall houses, told me that this is a unique feature of residential architecture of the Y Ty highland. Inside the house, it’s warm in the freezing cold of winter and cool in 37 the summer. The walls are bulletproof and don’t shake at all, even when butted by buffalo. A rammed earthern wall house at Y Ty Commune. Photo: Pham Bang When building rammed wall houses, the ethnic people of Y Ty avoid bare hills and mountain slopes near creeks, where landslides are frequent. Otherwise, even hurricanes and tornadoes can take away only the roofs. The house remains strong like a castle. Dao Do people building a rammed earthern wall house at A Lu Commune, Bat Xat Dist. Lao Cai Province. Photo: Pham Bang Hong Ngai Village of Y Ty Commune currently has 71 very beautiful rammed wall houses. Lao Chai, Sin Chai 1 and Sin Chai 2 Villages have about 30-40 rammed wall houses each. Some decade-old thatched roofs are covered with moss, which makes them look even more attractive. Groups of domestic and foreign visitors and researchers have come here to see the houses. Many couldn’t help remarking ‘What a wonder!’

Binh Thuan Province offers wild and pure beauty

No 3, Vol.11 , October – November 2015

On October 24th, 1995, a total eclipse occurred in Phan Thiet. Scientists and tourists from all over the world congregated here in this remote area to behold the miracle moments when the solar flower magnificently blossomed in the Binh Thuan sky. According to the Oriental I Ching philosophy, this is the sacred moment of the harmony between Yin and Yang.

Bau Trang or White Lake, Binh Thuan Province, 2008.Photo: Do Huu Tien

Binh Thuan features a gorgeous, nearly 200 km-long coast line, stretching from Tuy Phong to Bac Binh, Mui Ne, Ham Thuan Nam and Ham Tan. Captivating tourist attractions in Binh Thuan such as Mui Ne, Co Thach, Bau Trang, Doi Hong, Suoi Tien, Ke Ga and Ta Cu have gradually become common knowledge.
Binh Thuan has always been generous in serving guests with its unique, natural yields; tropical warm sunlight, long beaches lined with fine sand, lots of sea breezes and clear blue water. Countless secluded streams, waterfalls and rapids are found in the primal forests that make up Truong Son mountain range in the West of Binh Thuan.

Releasing a boat model, a ritual in the Whale Worship Festival, Binh Thuan Province, 2014.Photo: Tran Khanh Hung

This land, moreover, is also extremely attractive to curious tourists who are interested in learning about the local history and culture. Cham culture has been in Binh Thuan for ages. Through many changes, Poshanu Cham tower is still solemnly standing on the top of Ba Nai Mountain, contemplating the universe’s transformation. The Cham traditional dances, music, festivals and handicrafts have been maintained and conserved until today.

Mui Gio, 30 km away from Mui Ne, Binh Thuan Province, 2015, Photo: Nguyen Minh Tan

Ke Ga lighthouse, which was established in 1900, plays an essential role in the international maritime routes in the East Sea area. The water tower is Phan Thiet city’s symbol. It was designed by the Kingdom of Laos’ Prince, Suphanuvong, in 1928. This is also the symbol of the Vietnam – Laos nation’s friendship.
Inside the Truong Tho Linh Son Pagoda on the Ta Cu mountain top lies a statue of Buddha entering Nirvana.

Watering on the farm, Phu Long Town, Binh Thuan Province, 2014. Photo: Truong Anh Vu

It is a totally refreshing and different experience to wake up early in the morning and visit the fish landings scattered along the Binh Thuan coastal line. The festive atmosphere of those fish landings cheerfully ignite a new day. The seaside air has imbued Binh Thuan people with certain characteristics; hard-working, honest and especially friendly.

Co Thach Beach,Tuy Phong District, Binh Thuan Province,2015. Photo: Vo Hoai Huy

As a place rich in marine life, fish sauce-making has been Binh Thuan’s special and famous profession since ancient times. The fresh, sweet and healthy blue dragon fruit is another distinctive specialty of Binh Thuan.
The formation and development of Binh Thuan tourism began with ‘the Pearl’ Mui Ne. Beside the natural potential, policies and plans of the local government and the support of local people, there are also great and meaningful contributions from investors from all over the world.

Kite surfing in the sea Binh Thuan Province, 2015. Photo: Nguyen Quoc Huy

Today, Binh Thuan welcomes millions of new and old tourists every year, thanks to its own glamour. Those who come to visit Binh Thuan find the activities at sea most interesting. Outdoor sports such as water jetting, surfing, windsurfing and ballooning take place here.

Bringing a dead whale to the shore for a funeral, Binh Thuan Province, 2012. Photo: Pham Ngoc Hoang

Sea Links City stands out among all Binh Thuan’s tourism projects. This is an architecture ensemble with 5-star hotels, high-class restaurants, villas for rent, golf courses and many other entertainment services.
Most notable is probably the Champagne Castle, where there is a wine cooling cellar, demonstrations of champagne making procedures and a display of many kinds of rare champagne from all over the world.

A festival of Cham peopler praying for rain, Binh Thuan Province, 2014.Photo: Do Huu Tuan

Bau Trang (White Lake), a magnificent landscape, has been planned and conserved into a wonderful eco-tourism zone in Binh Thuan. This place offers you not only a chance to enjoy nature, but also a thrilling experience of driving an ATV on a winding road over the sand dulls.
Together with the overall booming of the province, Phan Thiet City has also renewed itself to be a young, fresh and potential urban area. Investors and international brands are pouring here to do business and service of all types, contributing to the whole land’s development.

Dragon and unicorn dances, Binh Thuan Province, 2014. Photo: Dang Thanh Lan

Ca Ty River charmingly runs through the ports before pouring into the ocean, adding to the special beauty that is full of the vitality of Phan Thiet.
After 20 years of planning and developing, Binh Thuan Province has become a renowned destination with millions of local and international tourists every year. One of the most interesting features of Binh Thuan tourism is: ‘Binh Thuan – Green Convergence’. It is the harmony of heaven and earth, of mountains and seas of rivers and lakes and the unity of cultures.

A dragon fruit plantation in Binh Thuan Province, 2015.Photo: Do Huu Tuan

Text from film Binh Thuan - Green Convergence 2015, script writer Phan To Hoai, Director Tran My Ha
Photos from the Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2015, photos selected for display at 8 exhibitions in Vietnam