Thứ Bảy, 7 tháng 9, 2019

Verticality arrives at Mui Ne

In recent months Mui Ne, that beach village two hundred kilometres east of Ho Chi Minh City that in the space of a mere ten years has achieved fame of the same kind as tropical beach destinations like Kuta in Bali or Phukhet in Thailand, has seen a new kid on the block. Actually it is the block as it is the only accommodation that is a tower block among a long line of mainly bungalow accommodations. Hence its name Unique Mui Ne Resort. Hopefully it will retain that status and not become only the first of its kind. It is still on its soft opening so for now it offers bargain rates . . .
On my way there on the bus I overheard two British couples discuss how they had chosen their hotels and they both said they had been influenced by the website Trip Advisor. I checked the site and found out that Unique Mui Ne Resort had glowing reviews from the public and was straight in at number seven out of 16 Mui Ne establishments. I enquired when the grand opening would take place to be met with the same answer as Obama gives about Afghanistan troop withdrawal, i.e. ‘When we are ready’. Allow me to proceed to detail to you what makes this place already special if not unique.
Unique Mui Ne Resort is set back from the noise of the main road at the end of a long flower-lined driveway. I was met at reception by Miss Florence Do Huu, the manageress. Her English was so good that I took her for American but in fact she had only gone to school there, having spent most of her young life in Paris. She admitted there was a long way to go with staff training before she could call for the grand opening. However, she said it was amazing the difference even a couple of weeks of training made with the eager-to-learn Vietnamese staff. One area which will take time is the upgrading of English-language skills. At present I found myself resorting to my poor Vietnamese with even the reception staff. The rapidity at which Mui Ne has developed makes training especially important as it is now difficult to find staff with all the requisite skills already in place. Nevertheless, most guests find little reason to complain and occupancy was 100 per cent and even though I had arrived at noon I needed to wait forty minutes before a room became available.

An environmentally friendly feature of the hotel which Florence was quick to point out is that the place is designed like a Gulf Arab wind tower to capture all the sea breezes to a natural air-conditioning effect. I’ll swear my Deluxe Sea View Room (rack rate $140 (VND2,940,000) benefited from this, though air-conditioning was provided, with in-room controls. Aside from wind there are solar panels on the roof. Also, environmentally, staff are regularly involved in beach clean-ups.
During the time waiting for the room to be ready Florence took me on a tour of the hotel. The wine cellar had been prepared and awaited being fully stocked. Downstairs there is a spa with massage rooms, steam bath and sauna. Something I found fairly unique if we may apply the qualifier ‘fairly’ to the word ‘unique’ is that above the entrance there is an overhead aquarium with coi carp (cá chép) swimming above you. This is particularly beautiful at night when mobile blue footlights shine on to it. Out through the basement doors and there is the lounge cum dining room and the infinity pool with the beach butressed against it. There is also the oceanfront Sea View restaurant which offers a la carte international cuisine and breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. The hotel has access to the beach that is immediate and has a good number of rooms that face the beach albeit that some at ground level have views of a neighbouring place’s gardens.
My Deluxe Ocean View Room was a real and spacious gem. Unique in my experience was the bathroom which not only had the standard spray shower but also an overhead one that made you feel as if it were raining. I was on the third floor with great views including the long line of manicured beach until it loses itself in the corner of Phan Thiet Bay that is the Mui Ne peninsular with the little blob of Hon Rom island after the ‘nose’. To the side were the gardens of neighbouring resorts. Practically to the height of my room in their leapings, people were kite-surfing on the sea. Had the breeze been stronger they could have been above me and I imagined England’s greatest fictional spy since James Bond strapped to one these dropping on to the balcony, bursting into the room and erroneously arresting me in his inimitable bungling way.
A week or two before my stay Unique Mui Ne Resort had played an active and important role in the holding of an international kite-surfing competition. Despite little wind on most of the days this event had been deemed a success with participation from many countries. Next year of course promises an event better one.
On to that unique feature for a Mui Ne beachfront property – the roof. It is not ready yet. Wind-breaks will need to be installed, as it is, as you can imagine, quite breezy up here. However there are plans for a restaurant and bar which can also be booked for private parties. Honeymooners please note that there have already been candlelit dinners for two here and there is space to accommodate functions for up to two hundred people.
No better place than this roof to enjoy that daily half-hour display of ever-deepening hues of tangerine and blues that ends in darkness and the turning of the sea into the Indian-ink black called a tropical sunset. Sadly, with a hotel full of people, I was the only one there to witness this majestic free show that nature has for the taking.


The beach that had been packed during the day was now still. There was only a young Russian couple frolicking in the surf and a Vietnamese man crouching with arms outstretched as you see men in the streets at conversation doing. It is unusual to see the gregarious Vietnamese without company. I wondered if he were a poet or a philosopher. Perhaps he was contemplating ending it all by drowning himself. The answer was as unfathomable as the ocean itself. I was of course watching the sun set over the East Sea (more familiarly known as the South China Sea to Westerners) and the sun sets in the west so no great fireball slowly being swallowed by the waters as you get in say Manila Bay. I did look west and saw an ominous sight – the dune skyline that Mui Ne is famous for is beginning to disappear. Already there are low-rise buildings on one section and another area has been bulldozed with earthen works in place for further development. Of course there will be spectacular sunsets to view from people’s balconies up there but apart from the environmental damage I hope they know what they are doing. Will nature one day claim back her own in the form of landslides?
Florence has already carried out a staff recruitment coup in securing the services of experienced middle-aged French chef M. Marc Grenouillon. He could well be the one and only foreign chef in Mui Ne to remember it as it was in the beginning. Although he has not been here continuously he has memories of Mui Ne dating back to 1995. I myself first came in 2000 so we had some conversation reminiscing about when there were only two real hotels on the whole stretch of this coast.
I trusted my palate to Marc for dinner in the lounge bar. First up was a cocktail aperitif. I chose a Mojito priced at VND95,000 ($4.52). Though Mexican in origin all the ingredients for this low alcoholic but high calorie content drink are readily available in Vietnam. They are sparkling water, lime, sugar, white rum and mint. I tried one of these last year in a Saigon hostelry of renown but this was better. The contrasting dark and light green hues were more beautiful and with a greater use of mint the taste was more delicious.
Marc’s dishes are original if not unique for Mui Ne Vietnamese-French fusion. ‘Gỏi Bò’, that Vietnamese dish that often gets translated as beef salad, was given a new twist but using raw beef carpaccio-style and more citrus flavouring than usual. It came served with prawn crackers. A scrumptious start to the meal at VND95,000 ($4.52). Next came a dish that I first thought was fish but actually was slices of squid resembling scales and arranged in a fish shape. Great presentation and with a mix of vinaigrette and butter sauce it was great-tasting (VND90,000 ($4.28)). For the ‘pièce de résistance’ I went for ‘Cá Thu Kho Tộ’ or mackerel baked in a clay pot with plain rice and veggies in garlic at VND95,000 ($4.52). All in all very fine dining at very reasonable prices.
I awoke from very sweet slumbers just before dawn and sat out on the balcony to find out just where that errant sun of the evening before had hidden herself. There she was gradually appearing over the line of the Mui Ne peninsular and beaming a golden roadway over the blue satin sea which ran uncannily right up to the sands in front of the Unique Mui Ne Resort. Absolute magic!
Why do these tides of Northern Europeans strike the Mui Ne shores in February? It could all be summed up in one chilling word, ‘Murmansk’. That was whence hailed the gentleman with whom I had a brief conversation in the lift using up all my limited Russian vocabulary. What a difference a day had made for him! From the near perma darkness, the icy blasts and whiteouts of the Arctic 69 degrees north to this shining tropical beach. He had chosen well his accommodation. He need only step out of his hotel to be on that beach. He could view it from his wide and airy-cool room and balcony along with the coconut groves. There was fine wining and dining and he could restore his weary body at the spa on site. This is only the soft opening. By the time you get there it should be close to perfection. I have the strong feeling that from the Unique Mui Ne Resort ‘we ain’t seen nothing yet!’n
Unique Mui Ne Resort20B Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien–Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province
Tel: (062 ) 3741-617
Email: info@muineuniqueresort.com
www.muineuniqueresort.com

Xin Man at a glance



In April, the last fiery flowers of the cotton trees spark on mountain slopes. With the long-brewing desire inside to conquer the scenic tourist path from Bac Ha (Lao Cai) to Xin Man, the most desolate highland district of Ha Giang Province, we hit the road on a beautiful weekend.
From Bac Ha township, the winding road up the Lung Phinh slope to the Lung Cai – Ban Gia fork is very smooth, lined with newly planted corn fields that began rooting and springing tender buds and terrace fields waiting for the first rain showers to begin new crops. Some milpas previously used to grow soya are now growing pharmaceuticals in order to make more income for local farmers. Looking from above down at the rows of ashweed and artichoke covered with nylon sheets, one realizes how well the highland farmers are catching up with new technologies. 
Having passed Lung Cai, we come to the frontier area, which begins with Nan Ma Commune, where it is rumored among trampers the valley is fantastic during the season of ripening rice. Although coming not at the time this natural scene is exhibited, we had nevertheless a very specific feeling one always has when coming for the first time to a new land. We passed the center of the commune with a school, an administrative center and houses on the roadsides, just like the other Bac Ha and Si Ma Cai highland communes of Lao Cai. Nan Ma folks told us that this national tourist destination witnessed the heroic death of 11 military entertainers during the war of resistance. The place also boasts the Cave of Fairies where one can pray for good health.
It was summer but the weather felt like that of autumn, making the journey so much more pleasurable amidst the imposing, majestic highlands. We were especially impressed by the rocky mountains and the paddy fields full of big and small rocks scattered all around. Here and there, rocks stack up like massive quires of stone papers. Sometimes we encounter Xin Man villagers working the rocky land before sowing the seeds, an image we have previously seen only on TV. Forest flowers bloom timidly on the slopes. A rare coral tree covered in brightly red flowers stood out like a landmark in the serenity of the mountains. 
From the top of the slope in Nan Ma, we looked down at the multiple coils of the road deep in the gorge, knowing that’s the path we would take to get to Coc Pai. The view before us was breathtaking. We went under lush pine groves that whistled in the wind. The town of Coc Pai sunk deep at the bottom of the gorge at the end of the coils of the road. Someone in our group was so moved by the scenery as to utter a few verses lauding the beauty of the fatherland. At Coc Pai, the center of the Xin Man District, we asked about the way to proceed. From hearsay, from the 0km post of Coc Pai township, one has to go 25km to get to the Xin Man frontier bazaar or to the Fairy waterfall, and 145km to reach the chief town of the Ha Giang Province. But some folks in Coc Pai say that it will be possible to get up to the Fairy waterfall only in May-June. 
Perhaps because there are now outstanding professional services like in other famous tourist destinations, here at Xin Man, instead of fuss and crowds, we felt very quiet, very private, very relaxed, completely freed from the mundane haste. Many foreign tourists like to come here just to walk around in the village and share the everyday life with the local ethnic minorities of H’Mon, Cao Lan, Nung, Yao, La Chi, Phu La, Tay etc. on these rocky mountains. That’s why the stretch of road between Bac Ha – Xin Man is so suitable for the tourists who want to explore and experience the eternal calm, the poetic and majestic scenery, the simple life and unique culture of the local highlanders.
On the tourist map of Ha Giang Province, Xin Man is marked as an attractive destination with locations planned by the district government to be developed into typical tourist packages to attract visitors to this rocky plateau. From the words of a Coc Pai town resident as we took a rest, tourists coming to Xin Man can visit Fairy Waterfall, Windy Pass, the ancient rock field in Nam Zan Gorge at the headwaters of Chay River, and hot spring at Nam Choong (Quang Nguyen Commune.) They can also enjoy foods and drinks of the local ethnic minorities and learn about the unique features of their culture, as well as legends about places that have secrets yet to be deciphered. 

Winding roads, rocky mountains, rumbling waterfalls, scenic terrace fields, and friendly, hospitable people were enough to give us a day as happy as could be while we experienced the beautiful tour in the Northwest full of interesting novelties. We vow to come back in the season of ripening rice and buckwheat blossom.
By Le Thiet Cuong


Nature reserve offers hidden delights


In early 2019, Na Hang – Lam Binh Nature Reserve in Tuyen Quang Province was recognized as a “National Special Scenic Attraction.” Located in Na Hang and Lam Binh districts, 250km from Hanoi, this 40,000ha attraction has 33,061ha of forests and 8,000ha of lakes.
Multiple lakes densely surrounding karsts help diversify wildlife in the Na Hang – Lam Binh forests with 1,162 floral species and 430 fauna species, including black snub-nosed monkeys, which can be found only in Vietnam.
Scientists have also found in the caves within the Na Hang – Lam Binh forests traces of prehistoric people. During the recent historical period, many of the caves within the reserve were used as military camps, offices and weapon production factories of the Vietnamese army in the wars against the French and Americans.
Today, about 15 ethnic minorities live in the forests of Na Hang – Lam Binh with their unique culture, making it a diverse cultural environment.
With the above mentioned natural, historical and cultural characteristics the Na Hang – Lam Binh Nature Reserve has many secrets waiting for visitors to uncover.
According to the authorities of Tuyen Quang Province, the nature reserve has 52 spots for tourists to visit, including 32 scenic places, seven archaeological relics, nine vestiges of architecture and arts, and four cultural heritage sites. A dozen of these spots have been ranked national attractions or relics.

The most notable spots
99 Thuong Lam peaks in Thuong Lam Commune of Lam Binh District is one of the most beautiful places in the reserve, about 15km from the Lam Binh District township. The 99 peaks are not only picturesque, but also related to a mythological legend.
Song Long Cave of Khuon Ha Commune of Lam Binh District is bigger and more beautiful among the caves of the reserve. The 200m- long cave is about 50m wide with the ceiling 40m high, full of mysterious-looking and magnificent stalactites that look like chandeliers.
Phia Muon Cave, an archaeological relic in Son Phu Commune is about 7km from Na Hang township. This is the dwelling space and graveyard of prehistoric people. In this cave, scientists found sophisticated stone tools and graves dated 3500 – 4500 years ago. Visitors to Phia Muon cave will see dozens of such graves of the post-Neolithic times and the dwelling of people of that ancient era.
Age-old villages of the Tay people such as those of Dong Da, Ban Khe, Bang Giong, Na Ta etc. are purely Tay villages where Tay people maintain their ancient lifestyle, customs and culture. Each village is a group of ancient stilted houses standing at a foothill near terraced paddy fields, creating a peaceful and poetic scenery. People live by growing rice, domestic animals, and weaving traditional brocades. To many, the image of Tay women in traditional garments sitting by an old loom is a symbol of this land.

Passion for my hometown Hue





In the first days of the New Year 2019, Thuy Lien had a conversation with photographer Luong Nam Nhat Long from Hue, First Prize winner in the category of Young Authors in the 2018 Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards for the photo “ Out of Class”

Hi Long, please talk about why you took part in the 2018 Vietnam Heritage photo contest?
I was wandering randomly on Facebook and stumbled on this photo contest ad of Vietnam Heritage, and the exciting ao dai theme made me register.
I browsed through the pics of ao dai I took that had some element of heritage, and stopped at the one of young female students on Trang Tien Bridge. In this picture, a film crew was re-enacting a scene of students of Dong Khanh School of the old times for a music video background.
How did you feel about winning the first prize in the category of Young Authors in the 2018 Contest of Vietnam Heritage Photography?I was happily overwhelmed. I knew I won a prize, but not which one. When I came into that room and heard my name, I was dumbstruck. People had to call me again to come up the stage. I was overjoyed.
In Hue, there are so many great masters of photographing ao dai, while I am not even a professional at that. All children of Hue love their native land as much as I do, I guess. But I both do and don’t want Hue to develop, because its quintessence is in peaceful and slow pace of life, not boisterous like other cities.
What is photography in your life?I took photos all the time to record moments of my life, but with my smartphone only because that was all I had. I liked my pictures and sent them to the contests of photos taken with a smartphone. I got a prize, which was a real photo camera.
Actually, my major is IT, which has very little to do with photography. Programming is mechanical in nature. It is not artistic at all. I currently work as a photographer for a few newspapers in Thua Thien – Hue and freelance in web programming.
How does your family react to your working as a photographer?In fact, at first they didn’t like the idea that I followed the photography craft and even tried to stop me. They wanted me to work in the field I studied. Another reason was that nobody in my family practiced photography.
So I quit for about a year. Then I felt the itch to go out and take pictures. Later, as I achieved a few small successes, my family stopped opposing me and even started supporting me.
Can the 2018 Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards be seen then as a pivoting point in your career?The prize won may very well be an important milestone in my career as a photographer. After the contest, many more people have come to know me, certainly.
In the prize-awarding ceremony the authors had a chance to mingle and meet, and that was a great way to network. I personally had a chance to meet many people I have been long admiring but never got to see.
Share with us some little stories you find interesting about your practice?In my practice, there are plenty of such stories, but the ones about photographing the Milky Way are the most memorable. I have never succeeded to take a decent picture, not yet.
Theoretically, one can see the Milky Way from everywhere, but actually it is impossible to photograph it in the city. One has to go away, far from human settlements in order to capture it.
In Hue, the Milky Way usually can be seen at about 2 – 3 am. To have a good picture, one needs a unique and unexpected angle. Once a friend of mine and I went to a cemetery to sit and wait. It was so eerie; we both sweated profusely although it was quite cold.
Another time, quite recently, I went with three friends to Bach Ma national park to take pictures of red maples, but we took very little food because we thought it wouldn’t take too long. We had only six packages of biscuits, all in a bag carried by the chubbiest guy..The scenery turned out to be too beautiful along the way, so we stopped a lot to take pictures, and the day passed by unnoticed. The biscuit carrier had chewed all the biscuits involuntarily because he was very quick at getting hungry. We had but a little water left, and a lot of laughter.
We have seen the famous red-shanked douc at Son Tra, but they were too far away so I could only enjoy watching them without taking any picture.
You obviously have a special love for Hue, which is also a familiar destination for tourism in Vietnam. Is there anything special about Hue that you would like to share?I have plenty. Take for example the ao dai of Hue, or the Hue rains. But a photo set taken in just 1-2 years can never be enough.
You can go around to see how Vinh Thanh fishermen catch squids, and to see their hardship during the high water season. Recently, photographers took very beautiful pictures of the Ru Cha mangrove, mostly using flycams.
Hue is also famous with the craft villages such as bronze cast village, delicacies village, and mussel village that make many dishes with tiny mussels.
Talking about Hue. one must mention the great ceremonies such as the staged Heaven and Earth Consecration, Nation Consecration, and the New Year tree erection inside the citadel at 3am.
The Heaven and Earth Consecration is a men-only ritual. Attendees must wear traditional outfits. The high ranking mandarins host the event and conduct the ritual. They are accompanied by a drum team, a blowpipe team and a dance team. The offerings normally include fruits and five different animals.
The ritual includes presenting to the deities wines, reports and a seal. The ritual is always solemn and full of grandeur because Hue people have high spiritual values. The people attending it always take home some godsend. They say it has power so I also take it (laughter).
What 2019 will be for you, a year completely devoted to photography and Hue?Yes, sure. I will learn to improve my technical skills, and earn more to acquire some dream equipment. In addition, I hope to collaborate with many more entities to bring the image of Hue to more people.
I wish that your plans are realized in 2019. Thank you for a sincere and enthusiastic conversation.

Mid-Autumn Festival signals party time for kids



Performers from the private drama troupe IDECAF will perform acrobatics, singing and dancing to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival at Bến Thành Theatre this weekend. — VNS Photo Duyên Phan
HCM CITY —  More than 300 disadvantaged children in HCM City will receive moon cakes, lanterns and other gifts at the Suối Tiên Theme Park this weekend as part of Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations around the country.
The children, many living in shelters, will also take part in traditional games and music at a party called Lễ Hội Trung Thu Yêu Thương (Beloved Mid-Autumn Festival).
They will also participate in a lion dance and lantern parade, and receive notebooks, pens, clothes and toys from the organisers.
Suối Tiên will offer free tickets to more than 5,000 poor children on Sunday night. 
Tonight, the IDECAF Drama Troupe will restage Truy Tìm Thủy Long Kiếm (Finding the Dragon Sword), one of its most popular plays for children.
The play tells stories about bravery, self-respect, honesty and friendship. It features boys and girls living under the sea who face challenges to protect the natural world and animals and people from the Dark. 
“Our work brings messages about love and life. It encourages children to fight against bad things,” said the show’s director  Minh.  
The play has attracted 30 actors, including famous comic artists Lê Khánh and Đình Toàn, who are talented in music, dance, pantomime and circus skills.
It will be performed at 8pm at Bến Thành Theatre at Mạc Định Chi Street in District 1. The show will open at 6pm on September 8 and 9.  Tickets are VNĐ200,000 (US$9) and are available at the box office. 
On Sunday, District 3’s Youth Cultural House will organise a gala called Vũ Điệu Trăng Rằm (Dance on Mid-Autumn Night).  
The event will feature singers, dancers and theatre artists from traditional art troupes and dance groups. It will open for free. 
As in previous years, cultural houses for children in the rural districts of Nhà Bè, Bình Chánh, Hóc Môn, Củ Chi and Cần Giờ will host programmes from Friday to Sunday, featuring lantern and fruit-tray design competitions, music and dance performances, and water-puppet shows.
At night, young performers will stage circus and magic shows. Several thousand poor children will be invited.— VNS

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